The History of Molokini Island

According to the legend, Molokini Crater is the tail end of the Mo’o, and the head is “Red Hill,” the red cinder cone of Pu’u O’lai across the channel. Legends of Molokini and stories may differ, but the fact remains: You don’t mess around with Madame Pele’s emotions.

While neighboring Haleakala volcano has erupted dozens of times since that date, this is generally believed to have been the initial event that formed the crescent-shaped islet in which we snorkel today. It was originally part of Maui island, but with the melting of the ice caps at the end of the last ice age, it’s believed that sea levels around Molokini rose 400 feet, surrounding the entirety of the crater with water.

Though no evidence exists that Molokini was ever permanently settled (fresh water is scarce on the dry, sloping rock), discoveries of stone sinkers and fishing lures by SCUBA divers suggest that the waters within Molokini were used as a food source and provided a healthy supply of marine life and fish. But not all its residents are located below the water. Birds nesting on the islet were gathered for their plumage and eggs, thereby making Molokini a resource for early Hawaiians by sea as well as by land.

This enabled them to see what was going on underwater. Hawaiians’ ingenious fishing methods were not limited to nets, baits, and nuts; they even included the use of medicinal plants that temporarily stunned fish and made them float to the surface. Imagine that this method of harvesting fish was safe for human consumption!

In 1883, King David Kalakaua hired two U.S. engineers to survey Molokini. The company they started, Alexander & Baldwin, is now well established in the islands, and in 1911, a navigation light was installed on Molokini.

The palu was tied to a hook, wrapped in a coconut leaf, attached to the stone, and dropped into the sea. The fisherman then yanked the cord, opening the package of palu down current. This practice attracted bigger fish to the area to feed. Other ancient Hawaiian relics modern divers seek are the teardrop sinker stones known as pohakialoa (long stone), which were up to 10 inches in length. These stones have been spotted at depths of up to 180 feet.

Many surviving animals fled to other areas, and the fishermen refused to risk their safety by visiting the island. During World War II, the navigation light was extinguished for security. Then after the war, a wooden lighthouse was built–the third in Molokini history. This structure lasted 42 years until it succumbed to the elements. Nowadays, a solar-powered stainless steel light tower marks the islet and is serviced via helicopter by the U.S. Coast Guard. Aside from the bombing, Molokini Crater was also frequented by black coral divers harvesting large amounts of the precious resource, eventually finding their way into high-end jewelry stores. That, combined with the detonation of an unexploded bomb in 1975, which destroyed a large chunk of live coral, led to a public outcry that would ultimately result in the establishment of Molokini Crater as a Marine Life Conservation District in 1977.

In the years since, not a single remaining ordinance has been found by the many divers frequenting the area. This is great news as Maui snorkeling tours, private charters, and whale watching offer some of the best views of the abundant life in and around Molokini Crater.

When you take a Maui snorkeling tour to the crater between December and April, you will surely see humpback whales as they migrate through the islands to their breeding grounds. When you swim or snorkel during whale season, you can actually hear the whales singing! Their songs are other-worldly, and the sounds can carry for several miles. For the photographer, the best time to capture pictures of these fantastic creatures is to take a morning boat trip to Molokini so the soft golden light will frame your view.

While snorkeling at Molokini Crater, you will also want to visit the snorkeling site called Turtle Town. Appropriately named, this spot off the south Maui coast is home to an abundance of Hawaiian green sea turtles. In fact, the incredible variety of sea life makes Molokini one of the best snorkel spots in the world. It is estimated that over 250 species of fish can be found there, along with 100 species of algae and 38 hard coral species. You may also see moray eels, octopus, or manta rays if you are lucky. When snorkeling, look for the Humuhumunukunukuapuaa (say that five times fast!). It is the state fish of Hawaii and part of the Triggerfish family. This brightly colored fish has a snout like a pig which gives it the ability to blow air from its mouth to sift through the bottom sand and get to the algae it favors eating. This fish does not like to be crowded, so you will want to view this beautiful little guy from a distance if you encounter him while snorkeling at Molokini Crater.

Along with the colorful fish, you will also find vibrantly colored sea urchins, shy moray eels, and a few white-tip reef sharks. This shark is much smaller than most of its cousins, is found mostly in shallow coastal reef-lined waters, and, unlike its cousins, is mostly harmless. They are fearless and curious, so they may come close to swimmers to check them out. Generally, they range from 2 to 6 feet. You can recognize them by the white tips on their fins.

For the more advanced divers, a trip to the backside of Molokini is a true bucket-list item. Experienced snorkelers and divers will enjoy the challenge of the Molokini Backwall. This dive is a great place to take pictures and videos in unusually clear waters. Visibility off the Backwall typically exceeds 100 feet, and you never know what may swim by. A lucky diver may encounter larger animals like manta rays, whale sharks, and humpback whales during the winter migration.

Molokini Crater is the most heavily visited marine protected area in the world, drawing about 375,000 people during a regular year, which translates to about 100 people in the water at any given time. Fortunately, Molokini’s deep waters and strong currents help mitigate physical damage to the coral reefs or pollution settling in the area.

Currently, there are several protections in place for Molokini, including limits on the number of boats and tours allowed in the crater at any given time. Since the early 1970s, pioneering members of the dive community, whose livelihoods depend on the quality of the reefs in their area, have championed the installation and use of mooring buoys to lessen the harmful effects of anchors on coral reefs. Over the years, the movement has gathered momentum and is now widely accepted as an effective solution to one aspect of coral reef degradation.